Saturday, December 6, 2025

Tunnel Hill 100K

I've been kind of a bitch the past month because everyone, including close friends, were like, "I didn't know you were going to race the 100K?" And I'm like, yeah duh, I didn't tell you. I acknowledge that the bitch in me is irrational. What surely aided was the relaying of a feeling I can only describe as, thatwascute, whatyoudidlastyear, but now the talentedbelovedsponsored - she'sgotitinthebag, thatpacewillbeeasyforher. This too, assumptive, and fueling, but also annoying. I'm sure I'm speaking from the Ego & a slackened sense of worth, but, here was the hope from the people, that this person would draw attention to it, make it sexier, break the record. This record that took 31 years to break. This is an annoying topic, because if you try talking about it, you're sure to be met with "records are borrowed not owned." Yeah duh. I know I possess nothing fully, wholly. Moreover, what I'm speaking to, is - I've got a chip on my shoulder I'm not cool enough to feign irrelevant. It's lame to me that instead of being excited to race against good competition, I felt slighted, like I wasn't in the same room with the talent. See the above (chip on shoulder, possess nothing fully, ego afraid of being irrelevant to self). 

I think that it wasn't just assumed I'd do the 50, but that I was going for my own record. That didn't light me up. What did was Ann's 100K AR, with its solidly sexy round figure of 7:00. I was told once it wouldn't go down, or that I wouldn't be the one to get it the day I wanted to in Berlin a few years back. I do well with negation. 

Trason ran 7:00:48 in 1995 (a world record at the time) at the IAU 100K World Championships in Winschoten. It would descend into an American record in 2000 when Tomoe Abe ran 6:33:11 at Lake Saroma; no one's been near the WR since. In '95, Trason won handedly, with 2nd place Joubert from RSA 33 mins behind. She seemed to have a good group of men about her, including one she outkicked by 1s. I can't pretend to know, but I want to think the setting encouraged the performance. These days it is incredibly difficult to find a fast road 100K (though there are numerous trail 100K's). Our national championships tend to be on more complicated courses or at times of the year where weather is a factor, and our world championships are unreliable, infrequent & seemingly no longer designed with the athlete in mind. 

It took Durbin a lot of time & effort to get his 100K certified; it didn't come to fruit 'til the few weeks before and was only granted American Record eligible (not World). Somehow (and I consider myself lucky for it) they allowed me to double-dip in the 50-mile en route to the 100K. All of those things came together at the last minute. 

It being Ann's, it being round, my being told I couldn't, the hard fucking work Durbin put in, having nothing to lose, no money to make, no sponsor to impress, no one caring (or knowing lol), just a hunt to break 7:00. With 2 weeks to go, my plan was: 100K AR & hopefully place in the top 3 in the US 50 Mile Champs en route (I mean ideally win both, but also, reserving the self & efforts for when it can work for me more).

In Vienna, M & I met Durbin et al at the park's Forman Depot, the matriarch overcome with our being from WA, how it would allow her to color in the state on her map tracking visitors for the year. Later, at the Perkins Inn, this 129-year-old thing with 14 quirky rooms, we unloaded the science of squeeze bottles, rubber bands, powders & gels in the Safari Room, with its porcelain sink by the animal print bed, the shower so narrow you can't bend. Caitriona & Martin who'd flown from Ireland were also at the Perkins, and I cherished my time with them. Irish, intelligent, attractive, funny, authentic, empathetic, caring, encouraging, motivating, thoughtful, competitive, likes to drink. I'm not into polygamy, but if I were. I also appreciated my time with Allison & Ben, also wonderful & supportive, but I knew we'd have a few weeks together traveling through Thailand & India within the month, so I metered my love for them. It was a big collection of favorites under the 129-yr-old roof (of which was collapsing in at the corner of the house). A group of us gathered in the dim-lit living room, on floral couches between fake plants, beneath the canted stained-glass window, talking, drinking wine, beer, whiskey, and I'm there, but I'm also not.

Race morning: I wore a thrifted mesh pinnie, shorts gifted by soar, an ice bandana from 1980, shoes my friend picked up from the adidas outlet in OR sans tax after the pair I got off ebay turned out to be fakes and the guy fought me on it until I told him they were going to get tested because "I was going after a record." Lmao. I didn't feel nervous or daunted, which is always a fortunate state of mind. If anything, I felt more interested in how this was going to go for Caitriona. I had a feeling - well & world record. But I (strangely, as I speak without thinking often), did not say this to her. I saved it for Martin. It's aggressive to tell someone you believe they can get a WR on their first attempt at a distance. I like being right. 

TH 100K: As clear as I felt Caitriona's outcome, I also felt one for Anne. Though not great for my mental health, I appreciate being off antidepressants because my intuition is reactivated. I prophecy a lot, and the ability to went away on antidepressants. I think this would be fascinating to analyze. Anyhow, the vibe I got from Anne was that she was confident and mischievous and that she'd get the 50 mile record. It's funny that I spent a good half year visualizing racing Des, just for her to drop it and Anne to come in. All that time the mourning of was a prophecy itself. 

The hard part about my racing the 50 Mile in tandem with the 100K was that I'd have to straddle both of those efforts. In doing so, I kinda spent some load in the 50 that made the final 12 feel pretty shit. If Anne hadn't of been there, I'd have slowed it down in the first half, but I wanted to position myself to capture her if she faded, and/or secure 2nd in the 50 Mile US Champs. 

It being the US Championships, there are specifics you must understandably adhere to. One being: no pacing is allowed by others outside your race distance. Fortunately, I was in (2) races, and I got to legitimately spend some miles with Wardian. It was our first time meeting/racing together. He was going after his age group record, and he was wearing tevas, and he was a chatty soul-counselor. I lost him to a pee stop after admonishing him for not being able to pee himself, which is something I've only been able to do for about a year, but I guess I judge people for not being able to now, up on my bladder control flexibility throne. It has been my experience to relish early mile company, because the majority of the race is spent alone & it gets tiresome (esp as a depressive). What can be hard is navigating that energy differential, wherein we'll be talking about being assertive, and lifelong sponsorships, and taco bell, and then there's pee, and then silence for 45 miles. However, one thing about TH that adds to its spirit, is that because you're going back and forth, and because there's several races happening at once, you get to cross against others, and these others are soulful others. They look you in the eye, smile, cheer. It is a sad quiet lonely introspection dotted with miles of engagement from people who care just as much about what you're seeking as in what they seek. 

I had testing done with Precision Hydration prior to Comrades this year & developed a plan to put to practice at Com & TH with hopes that I'd manage the balance of intake vs. need to pee better, but despite the info/advances/evolutions, I'm still out here needing to pee 10+ times in an ultra. It's positive for saving time that I went from stopping to pee 10+ times to peeing myself 10+ times, but it is not positive for my creases. I'm currently ok with this exchange, but like, wtf.  

The first 1/4 = Mike Wardian & an ever-growing gap from Anne.

The last 3/4 = a study on aloneness, on staying the course solely dependent on self-motivation. Knowing there is nothing to win but satiating a curiosity on whether or not I can accomplish something I decided one day I wanted and have been working towards for years. That's how I access what little pride I allow myself - not that I did it, but that I did it hard. It would have been way more fun to have had to compete, to practice tactics, to talk. Alas, let me burrow further into a self-belief that I need nothing from no one & pride myself as hyper-independent...

Around mile 42, a man in the opposite direction said, "She's walking up ahead! You can get her." That reignited focus, but he was either lying, wrong, or possibly right, but the right wasn't enough to catch. In looking at numbers after, it's funny. "She's walking" wouldn't have saved me 14 minutes those final miles, but I think a part of me believed it could be possible, because I couldn't imagine how she was running so fast without fading. Anne Flower went on to severely lower the WR in 5:18:57, smiling start to finish. She has had an incredible year. It would have been fun to see her & Des compete. 

I came in 2nd in the 50 Mile US Championships, in 5:33:59, and as I passed through Micki said I had a look of mischief about me. At that point I didn't feel too bad, but I remember looking for Anne to congratulate & was mourning all at once. The angst felt physical at the center of me. Eyes welled. That there was a mischievous look is a lot cooler than the myriad feelings, but I can suss I was probably feigning and trying to reign in a sense of power. 

There followed physical, emotional & mental degradation. Sensible, as I'd passed through the finish twice now, and I'd shot a lot of load trying to cinch 2nd, and shot a bigger load emotionally on being bested. For a lot of what was left, I wanted to lay down. I tried for math, to know what I was working with, and after a cycle of equations, I believed I did not have it. The turnaround for the 100K felt so far. I saw M ahead waiting to hand my last bottle & in seeing him, the panic I'd been feeling rose. There's something about seeing someone you love when you're feeling vulnerable & exhausted that can break you. You'd hope it could strengthen, but perhaps, as a hyper-independent, for someone to see you breaking is too much to bear. I was experiencing this small cycle of an oncoming panic attack, lack of oxygen, panic, being severe with myself as in I'd tell myself, suckitup, I'd get my breath back, and then the small panic attack, cyclically. Thankfully, the further I got away from M, the more it was just what it was with no witness. Save for, I started moaning. I'd be coming up behind racers, and they'd look behind them to see what the moaning was about. And then at mile 61 I looked down and was surprised to see that if I "sprinted," I might just get the record. That made me mad. Mad at the math earlier that could have aided in this last mile feeling more appropriate, mad that this is what I choose to do with my life, my body, my mind, mad at the state of the world and lack of support and how I only held that record for 1 year, and now, I'm just realizing that all of this fueled me to my own personal goal. I can do well mad & slighted. I think I'm just realizing I reverse-pyschologied myself. I curated the fuel to make it possible. I had to get mad enough. 

Some feet from the finish line, you have to cross a major road. I barreled through that, feeling, that if I was stopped by a car, or hit by one, none of it mattered. All I could see was red digitals climbing to a 7:00. I was going to be pissed with a time that started with 7. I finished in 6:59:55, laid down & cried. 

This Tunnel Hill did not feel as good as the last did. I had to run it in a balance of conflictions. I was distracted and self-involved & both help in their ways. It was hard to go back to TH because I knew what to expect, and because it's rare you're given the same feelgood twice. But it was easy to go back because it has a soul that's rare to find. It was a reunion. Of Durbin & his jovial crew. Of world teammates turned friends. It's special because it means we continue on together. We're not just once's and then digital, we are re-engaging at events through the years. I know their wants better, their skillsets. I know what it means intimately if I see one pulled to the side, or walking, or having their day. I see their people on the side supporting them, and I know them better and well now too, and it's this collection, this slow earned learning through like-paths that makes me feel like the sport as I love it still exists. Here we've all found ourselves in the middle of the woods with little to no fanfare. Allison got the Marathon CR then stayed to cheer for us all those hours later. Caitriona & Martin. A story itself. Success in debut. The love & recognition she received thereafter. The gift of meeting, of racing against, of supporting, and in the shared experience of being dismissed. 

I wanted to see Caitriona finish, but we had an early flight out of Nashville. Did drug testing with my partner in piss, Geoff Burns. Ate a burger & took a shot of double-oaked Woodford with M & Durbin. Was afforded the chance to see Fleet Feet Phil & Caitriona pass through a last time. M & I headed for Nashville & I sat with an anxious discomfort, upset that I hadn't planned better to see Caitriona finish this first for herself. It was slightly assuaged by updates from Durbin & Martin. She's going to do it, they said. And she did. 

M & I got to our hotel in Nashville, drove past the animated downtown grid, to Jack Cawthon's BBQ per recommendation, for: brisket, pork ribs, smoked chicken, baked beans, mashed potatoes, mac & cheese, collard greens; grabbed a bottle of wine and hardly enjoyed it. He splurged for first class on the way home, an endless stream of weak mimosas. Landed just in time to drop into Lincoln Park to watch BDP race PNTF's. Within the next 24hrs I was in the ED with a second bout of kidney stones in 8 months. I knew what to expect this time, and I still couldn't manage it at home. Perhaps I was working from a deficit having raced the 100K. It really fucked me up. I can't think about it too much. It's in a box in my brain.

Wednesday, July 2, 2025

Stoned

March 4 - I thought I might be dying: kidneys full of stones, led by a large lead. It was near unbearable, and prompted thoughts on life & living. I tend to feel more alive when things like this happen. "Things" being anything odd and/or painful. When I had extensive heart testing a few years ago, in Echo - that felt like an exterior existence, but when the transducer found valve & chamber and you could see the pumping (enhanced by synchrony with sound), I suddenly realized I was Alive. That thing was me; I was made of stuff. Or when the dog attack happened last summer, fight or flight response engaged, watching myself from above fighting against them - that made me feel alive. The adrenaline largely, seeing my insides, pain. 

That day I'd worked, ran twice; the first - warmup, 2 x k @ 3:15, 3 miles @ 6:00, 3 x k @ 3:15, 2 miles @ 6:00 with 2.5 min btwn all, cooldown. I did it in: (3:10, 3:10), (5:55, 5:53, 5:49), (3:15, 3:13, 3:10), (5:50, 5:42). Later, I had a 6-mile double with 10 x 25s hill sprints. After, I had a massage and was surprised when he told me I felt pretty good and that it seemed my body was taking well to the training. I'd been fretting how much I was beating myself up with 100-mi weeks + intensity and little-to-no body work, and even if he was lying, I came away from it feeling empowered. I didn't need resources! I didn't need anyone! 

I remember dinner that night vividly, because I'd engage with it viscerally. I swam in it: a platter bowl of massaged kale, chili crisp oil, nutritional yeast, vegetables, breaded chicken, water, wine, and ice cream. I laid on the couch with my legs up. In a sudden, I felt a sharp pain in my left low back. It was so startling I immediately went to the roller, thinking my QL might be spasming. That was pretty evidently not right. Ran to the shower. As soon as I got in, I began to vomit uncontrollably. I filled the tub. There wasn't a thing to be done about it. It was very green and dense. I'm not sure I've never not made it to a respectable receptacle, especially when it's 12 inches away. I couldn't believe the magnitude. M was asleep, and stayed that way, a benefit of sleeping pills. I googled, figuring it had to be kidney stones, but worried of burst, of death. Nothing soothed the pain. Multiple rounds of vomiting. I scooped my interior from tub to toilet. Hobbled to the living room floor & tried to find a position to lay, which ended fetal, doing rhythmic breathing as if in birth, and in trying to breathe through it, I noticed my heart rate drop low and lower and my mind go quiet. I reached to feel a pulse on my wrist and couldn't. I did think I might be dying. And, I asked myself if I wanted to let go.

I think I fell asleep for a few minutes and then ran to throw up again. I woke M to take me to the hospital. I didn't want to go. I detest the whole thing - the care (quality), lack of urgency (evidenced), having to rely on a system I distrust (personal, but also evidenced), health insurance (evidenced, bullshit), the bill (evidenced, bullshit). But I guess that's how much I wanted to live that night (drama). M drove me to the ED. It was 11 pm; I was in the waiting room for 3 hours before I was seen. I happened to pee while I was waiting, and the pain lessened. It convulsed in waves, but in waves cascading downwards. When I finally gained entrance, I was put in a bed in the hall, which put me in a reverie of what the last hours of my grandmother's life, there in the same hallway, must have felt like. That the sights and sounds and lacking I was witness to were perhaps the same to color her last hours, and how miserable that is, and hopefully inaccurate in supposition. There in the waves, in the sounds of hospital hallway, next to a room whose door held contamination & mandatory entry rules, being very present to the way all the rules were broken around that room, lying beside it, vulnerably. It felt as if I were a secret shopper, save for the only one to report to is a prompted "How was your stay" email. 

They gave me anti-nausea meds, blood & urine tests, an IV bag, the nurse in easy-gasm over runner's vein, but strangely said, "I won't be greedy and get that big one, I'll do this weird obscure one to the side." There was blood in my urine. They pondered rabdo and being on my period. I felt like a child going through the list of Isn'ts, hoping I could convince them of the Probably to offload unnecessary & costly testing. Got a CT. That was actually a pleasurable experience, though I wish there had been a lesser step before CT - like what about an ultrasound? Apparently kidney stones are detectable via US, and are markedly more affordable, so wtf? The CT tech was a happy, playful man. I thought we were vibing, but then he wheeled me back & gave the same jovial speech to the next in line & my god the fun went to sad because how many times does he do this? Is there deviation? Am I not special? Also, as a secret shopper, I find it particularly fishy that everyone in the ED needed a CT that night...seemed like a cash grab.

PA comes back & says both kidneys are full of stones, that I probably passed the big one that I'd been laid bare over, in the waiting room, and he either said or gave the impression that the stones left in both could pass without much trouble, that, or I should see my Primary if I had further issues. It wasn't very helpful, as a first timer of stones. What it feels like is let's test for several things without listening to the patient, do the more expensive imaging, say well...looks like you're full up and the worst went, then see ya, a bill for several thou will be to you in the next month, separated out for hospital and radiologist.

I was given Dilaudid via IV. I did not find joy in it. Or relief. It felt like someone was sitting on my chest, akin to growing panic, without the emotion. At this time, M had to begin work, and I had an hour before I had to myself. I wanted a coke slurpee. Maybe a cheeseburger. But he brought me home, where I rested for the hour & then I went to work because all I know how to do is lean into the suffering. 

I spent a good week or two or months with weird little feelings, female feelings, aches, largely in the back left side. I felt hollowed out a bit, taken for a ride. There is zero research around running at a more intense level while full of stones, save for the line, "exercise has been found as helpful to encourage the passing." With it in the rearview, hopefully, I have some thoughts: 

- The hospital system is broken in many ways. But I've known, and you probably have to. I'm not above waiting, I am observant and empathetic, and I trust my ability to read the landscape.
- All but one hospital staff member lacked urgency. A group of nurses spent their time in the box trying to figure out how to input their vacations, and sadly, but juicily, complained about specific patients' inability to take direction. When you're in pain, in a hallway, and you hear them bitching about people or wasting time over schedule planning, the 3+ hours you waited to get in there feels worse. 
- As verified by a friend who's worked in that ED, if you present something off script, it can throw the PA/Dr. This specifically evidenced by my interruptions of, "No, I don't believe it's rabdo, I've had that before," and "No, I'm not on my period," to which such interruptions in his speech made him stumble, then re-track to finish a definition of rabdo. I find this frightening, because the script thinking is fixed & assumptive and totally wastes everyone's time, resources & money. Listening, trust and creative or fast thinking seems to be lacking. 
- I'm quite afraid of what this bill will be. The dog attack cost $2k out of pocket, and that was just for someone to look at the wounds, tell me there hadn't been a rabies case in 10 yrs, and give me 2 tylenol. And that was the cost after health insurance...I applied for financial assistance and their response was that I make too much money at $40k/yr. 
Edit: The cost out-of-pocket post health insurance is $4k
Double Edit: Oh thank god, they think I'm poor enough, they're going to wave this!
-There were minutes there, on the floor, when my mind went quiet and I couldn't feel a pulse. I'm sure it was a pain response, but I leaned into it a little. I'm a little surprised I got up, but I think it was more the body & nausea & purge than a choice. 
- I'm not sure what kind of trophy I expect from trying to be tough all the time. I don't know anyone who would have spent the night in the ER and straight to work thereafter, making $40k year. Here I am always, in a state of suffering, stemming from the out-of-my-control and into a sick habit of piling it on without reason.

Yo, so I got Mad City in a few weeks. 

Friday, January 10, 2025

'24 IAU 100K World Championships x The Bengaluru Part

Wednesday, December 4 - The 4-hour flight on Indigo from Bangkok to Bengaluru was easy, albeit barebones (the Allegiant of India), and despite all the shit I'd warned the team to be weary of, entry/customs was also easy. I was on a kind of high from the ease. Recently told MM that this is my MO, you know, expecting the worst and how good it feels when it isn't, but he didn't think that was the healthiest. The better view is probably expect nothing, receive everything. 

The drive from Bengaluru airport into the city tricks you via funnel. Along Bellary there's several lanes and space to drive, then it becomes Tadipatri & you're siphoned into that Indian-specific bedlam. In Hyderabad, the traffic, maneuvers & horns were of great novelty. I tried to decode it; found a sort of rhythm in the language of palms, horns, braking - the serene body language & facial slack at odds with the acts. In Bengaluru it was almost inappreciable, like, "Oh that? I didn't even notice." - Says the self-important itinerant. In the swollen, at stoplights, several knocking on the window in plead, a baby even, knocking, pleading, and how it feels to deny, turn your head, ignore. 

There was some quandary with the host hotel, The Chancery, ahead of our arrival. It was the 2nd hotel we'd been transitioned to already, after we'd paid room & board fees for the original a few weeks before arrival (the original was more costly & the excess was not reimbursed). The team leads transitioned us to St. Marks a short walk away (all other federations & event activities maintained at Chance). Gratefully this was all done while KB & I were drinking Singhas in Bangkok. 

We arrived at St. Marks at 5:30 pm, the start time of our first team mtg. Without checking in or dropping bags, we were circle-sat & discussing tell-us-something-no-one-knows, how many kids do you have, and here's the plan. After, checked in by two smiling similar men, one named Mathew, the other Krishna, which Kris noticed & appreciated, a perhaps other kismet. 

The lot of us walked to The Chancery for dinner (we'd do this for every lunch/dinner). Hung out with a new beloved, Allison & my old beloved, Liz Eder-Northern (roommate) in our room; Liz & I's two twins pushed all but a finger together. A slit perfect for losing things in. 

Thursday, December 5 - Up by 5 am. Walked the stairwells as Liz slept. Ryan with the excellent eyebrows & veritably kind disposition knew I hadn't brought shit by way of personal bottles (see: wanted to maintain 1 backpack on the trip) and kindly lent me a few of his personal soft flasks for the race. I don't accept kindnesses easy & as I saw it, I was taking from what he had prepared for himself. He's so damn nice, and assuring, and I won't forget that when he could easily have not, he did.

7 am - Breakfast at St. Marks, serving: curd, pineapple pastry cakes, gulap jamoon, banana smoothies in petite cups, "dry cake," grilled chicken with pomodoro sauce, pale chicken sausages, a jar of tartar, fish nuggets, coconut & peanut chutnies, sambar, rawa & plain idlis, aloo paratha, bhatura, channa masala, puliyogare, corn cheese dumplings, black chana, green moong dal, cheeses, preserves, an omelet bar. Over breakfast Liz's dad told me he had a dream that night that he was covered in tattoos and tried to wash them off & asked if mine have any meaning. Told him it's more about where I got them than what they are: souvenirs. He said, "We get magnets for the same reason." I said, "I'm a refrigerator." And this is generally how most conversations probably go with me. Liz and I shared a plate of papaya (which we both feel outperforms the US') with lime and salt & double espressos. 

9 am - Left by 70's Scania bus for Course Preview. The Scania was a beautiful dirty white log, with Castelvetrano-colored tapestries, a maroon & black striped rug down the center, bucket seats with white toppers, orbed & angular lighting, the fire extinguisher behind a gold curtain, and this handsome bygone driver with long hair & beard. It took 1.5 hrs from hotel to GKVK University. The lot of us ran the course loop together - half the team veterans, the other new & no one with an ego or anxiety so telling they needed to do their own thing at their own pace (easily warranted). I'm not sure I've been on a team where this was a thing. Along the course at GKVK: Nat'l Tuberculosis Institute, Institute of Flavor Technology, a bee farm, a large black centipede with red legs, dogz lazing, hordes of school children all in in a line, high fiving. 


The ride back was another exhaustive 1.5 hrs. A quick lunch at Chance: malai paneer tikka, murgh tikka, Peri Peri fish fingers, fish curry, mutton biryani, puttanesca, honey chili chicken, "exotic vegetable in oyester sauce," greek lemon potatoes, vegetable hakk noodles, peas pulao, rasam, sambar, yellow dal tadka, miloni tarkari, cabbage pori yal, shahi paneer, boiled egg & corn vegetable salad, roasted fish & fried potato salad with capers, chicken sausage & apple salad, grapefruit with mesclun, sprout corn & pepper salad, papdi chaat, curd rice. Desserts: milk cake, rasmalai, kheer kadam, moong dal halwa, bread butter Danish pudding, rich kitkat brownies, assorted French pastries, blueberry "cold" cheesecake.

Straight into a tuk tuk with KB, Nicole & Patrick, sighting colored birds in stacked cages, to our cooking class with Manju in the urban-RT Nagar area. Her home, off a thin street and enclosed by iron wrought. Within, Christmas. She ushered us through pvc strip curtains to wash our hands. The menu we'd work through: Chicken 65 (Manju's favorite), Chicken Ghee Roast, Chicken Biryani (what I'd like to call The Great Layering), Chicken Korma & Chettinad Chicken. Each would spend some time at the head doing prep, compilation & conclusion (scissoring chilies, removing the cocoon of seeds, roughly cutting, precisely measuring, coating, layering). Fits of eye itch, nose tingle, sneeze & cough, the slow squeeze of the room's air, choked by chili, pepper, mustard seed, cumin, paprika, coriander, garam masala, turmeric & nutmeg. Further choked when put to flame. A mass of tissue boxes.


It was slow and then suddenly fast, each recipe layered towards singular climax. Spooned into serving dishes & placed at the center of a long table where the four of us plated ourselves. Manju is a joy. She enjoys her alcohol, namely Sula's sparkling wine for its sweetness and sour apple liquor. I'm grateful Kris organized the class for the 4 of us. 

Later that evening some of us ladies perused the shops at Chance. There was a wall of pashminas where Lin & Sue got suckered into micro-analyzing the variance between hundreds of them, putting them on, tossing a corner over the other shoulder, "oh this is not me," "oh this is close!" The pile of unfolding, of discarded growing. Dessert with the team: vanilla ice cream with multi-colored candy rocks that looked circa '97 fishbowl bottom.

Friday, December 6 - Woke up with rod tight hip-flexor-to-rectus femoris-connecting lines on both sides (new). I think I overshot my load on the strides at course preview. Perhaps paired with the amount of sitting/travel time (incl. the bus ride to/from GKVK), I think I wasn't ready to run sub-5/mi pace, even if for just 10s. I was & am greatly displeased by the amateurity this illustrates.


7 am - a group of us ran from the hotel to Sri Chamaragendra (Cubbon) Park: gated, pedestrian-centered, leafy. To the FC/Indian Super League track at Sri Kanteerava Outdoor Stadium for a few laps. People were bench pressing and long jumping.

After, we watched the World 100 km Panel Discussion feat. Liz on stage beneath an exorbitant crystal chandelier. I did henna. A woman from the LOC complimented; made her do some of the linework. It felt like asking for something you want, being given it, and then feeling like you captured a piece of a shared human experience & you're proud of yourself for suggesting the setup (wow, gag me, but the feeling is real). As I finished the hand & Liz her speech, the reporter from Lithuania surprise interviewed me and said something like, "Americans tend to be really confident, then there's Charlie Lawrence...and on the other end, there's you." Made me laugh. Couldn't argue. 

Later on, the women's team met in our room for further henna, massage, and general tactic planning, which consisted of a lot of "we'll sees," I think all of us aware that no matter the planning, we were at the mercy of a most unusual thing, a thing that would dictate, not be dictated. Bottles prepped.

Dressed in our pantsuits, walked to Chance Ballroom for Opening Ceremonies. Charlie was interviewed by Lithuania guy wearing sunglasses inside. I think we got a little riotous in that tamped down way where if you don't express it a little you might implode, ie Lin rage-played solitaire as the speeches spieled. Each federation did their walk up. When it was our turn (2nd to last), carrying little flags, the screen behind with our flag gave out, we started to walk off, they called us back so we could do it properly save for this time it was a mini flag hiding behind our backs, so we stood there a while as they tried to fix it to make the flag big enough to be seen, and I feel like there's a metaphor here. 

A sick dance sequence with a very agile central figure. KB speculated it was Elov up there. I've got these bum hip flexor quad lines still rodding & then I go to stand up and I've suddenly thrown my ankle out. Limped out of the ballroom. Managed to stop for a stroopwafel served on a silver platter by a Nederland guy & then, after a while, got my ankle back in place. 

Took some pics by the pool. Did some flat lays & then our team leads kindly orchestrated a private dinner at St. Marks so we could be together in a quieter, in-bed-earlier way. Dinner: pesto pasta, garlic breadsticks, salad with onions, tomato, cucumber & parsley, chicken, rice. 

My love, Carla Molinaro sent me over: "My friend go and crush it this weekend! You are on fire and this race is yours! Go get that crown so we can both sit in a swimming pool in South Africa drinking margaritas from a doughnut shaped inflatable ring being queens of the world hahahaha! Heads up, tits up, go fuck it up." KB brought by a collection of art he'd organized from friends who drew renditions of my likeness at TH, or generally. They are incredible, and the gesture from him & all left me muted. I squirm under the feeling of that gesture. Liz hung her children's drawings of me around my bed; these children who'd grown to draw a likeness, who'd been babies in Romania on our first world team together. Pounded the leftovers from Manju's class in bed. Asleep by 8:40 pm with an alarm set for 9:30 pm to sign up for the Chuckanut 50k. 

Saturday, December 7 - Down for breakfast at 3:45 am; a semi-sui generis: 2 sugared donuts with a date shoved into centers, a hardboiled egg, a single link of unclothed chicken sausage, a bowl of maurten bicarb, and espresso. KB kindly brought a 2nd personal stash coffee. One might wonder: what does it feel like pre-race when you've eaten Indian food all week, including right before bed on the eve, and hunks of raw onion & all that coffee? It feels like you might imagine - that I needed pepto. 

The team & our people got on a private bus. Ryan & his dad wrote "Texas 4 Ever" in the fogged window. Lin sat up front with a stack of colorful buckets for our ice, drinks & bandanas. Sat by Chikara in soft talking peace. Dropped at GKVK Campus, our table the last in the long line, and directly alongside the medical tent which held metal framed beds with plaid bedspreads. Accoutrements in place, things on ice. Lubed up. Chipped. Checked in. They delayed the start by 15 min to let some sun rise. 


6:15 am - Race starts. The field size felt more substantial than it had in '22. 21 laps with the first an abbreviation (each lap shy of 5k). Ran the first 1-2 miles with Allison, then, aside from a brief spell with Ireland (my beloved Caitriona) & Poland, I was mostly alone. It was both boring & slightly engaging - people to see ahead, to be felt behind. Considered a "closed course," I never expected it to be after my experience in Hyderabad, but the level or style of it at GKVK was farcical: mopeds, motorcycles, cars, ambulances, people, braiding between the racers, or slightly clipping, or stopping them in place. At one point I was nearly clipped by an ambulance. It pulled in front of me to then make a 90-deg. turn, couldn't make the turn & started reversing into me. Had to run down an embankment, through a ditch & back up to get away from it. Many a racer were shouting, throwing their hands up, smacking cars. After some complaints to staff/our leads, the traffic seemed to quiet. That, or I just went inward & was too dead inside to realize a continuation of the fuckery. Add to that macaque monkeys with bright pink buttholes investigating discarded foodstuffs. It's an adventure, the road 100k. 

Felt my hip-flexor-quads from start to painful finish. Aside from that & stomach acid, the first 8 miles felt good. Lol, 8 miles of a 100k. After mile 8 I became increasingly more uncomfortable. Started to feel sleepy; couldn't keep my eyes open. Stopped at the US aid station & took a ketone shot, a caffeine chew & coke, which helped (but yikes). All of this India, the heat building, all that caffeine, taking in nutrition in humidity, lent towards a record number of bodily exports. One time, after holding it for a while, I stopped at a porto at the bottom of a long downhill & found the pot filled above the toilet lid with blood & shit in a spew across the back wall. After another lap past it, I saw 2 hapless souls squeegeeing the thing, excavating its insides into buckets. 

By halfway a localized pain above my left knee bloomed; it grew sharp & finite. Charlie had dropped (due to his Achilles) and kindly gunned my quad. I ran by Caitriona (who also dropped, bc she couldn't breathe, asthma exacerbated by the air quality) & asked her if she knew anything about acute localized pain in that area. She noticed I was bruising & spoke to our medical while I continued. I think they told her I'd be fine (lol, Great). She was saintly & empathetic, seeking info for me, delivering it. I valued being able to complain to her, to see what she did under the pressure of someone else's issue, when she herself hadn't had her day. Because I was bruising, and after what I'd experienced last year at the 50k WC's, where they chalked it up to a knot when it was a 2-tear, I started panicking. Had a 2-lap panic attack - we're talking 10k of panic here. In hindsight I wonder if it (the panic) could have also been due to aqi, as I'd heard a lot of people had breathing issues during. Panicking is fucked, because you're not able to breathe & stressed about it. Started to cry. Stopped in at the aid and took more time than I would, Lin offering handfuls of choices to try to soothe me; also chaotic because you don't really need 6 options when you're panicking, or ever, just the one you planned for. Straight up said I was afraid I was hurting myself & wasn't sure I should continue but was kind of softly ignored and encouraged on. A tactic for sure. It only got worse, and by mile 54 I'd had it. I decided before entering the aid station that I was going to drop. I come in crying. Someone suggests some pain meds. Lin says we're in contention to medal. I say, "Yeah, but how close is it?" Trying to decipher if it was still possible for the team to if I dropped. "It's really close" she says, without telling me what we're fighting for - Gold? Silver? Bronze? I take the pain meds, grab like 5 things: iced sponges, a soaked hat, a bottle of coke, nutrition, and hands full, continue, thinking really mad thoughts if this counsel I've been given lends me towards a broken leg for the sake of a medal. I am in the exact same position as I was in in last year's 50k, which was one of the worst racing experiences of my life. And it's the same, but twice as long & twice as bad. *Trust that I've thought PTSD was speaking louder than physical actuality. 

It took a few miles, but the meds kicked in. It was also helpful that at the top of the long climb, at the LOC aid station, there was a volunteer with spray cans of Biofreeze that he'd raise his eyebrow in ask & I asked him if I could take one & he let me. Held onto the Biofreeze for the rest of the race, spraying my leg in intervals. My QL's started to go, so took it to my back, but I'd unknowingly chafed at the hem of the race top & so sprayed Biofreeze onto open burn. Then, it trickled down lines of sweat, into my clinging wet shorts & burned the chafe rims of the sensitive liner bits. Honestly, self-curated burning took the edge off the localized quad pain. Here's a picture: I'm wetter than wet, fabric & skin bathed in piss & Biofreeze, bruising, chafing, burning, sponges stuffed into my top, and I'm holding 6 things. All for the love of the game. 

I milked our aid station like it was a full gear reset in the middle of a 200, every time, which was 20 times. This is not conducive to fast championship running. In one of my appeals to Caitriona to save me, she said, "You're doing great! You're in 3rd!" And baffled, thought, maybe a lot dropped? On the next lap she goes, "I'm so sorry, I was wrong, you're in like 11th." Lmfao. 

Thankfully, Allison was given information that with one lap to go she was 1:30 behind a Japanese runner, and if she could get her, we'd slip into 3rd. This is the kind of info essential to championship racing. 

When I finished, I wasn't in the results; chip went awry. They work me back in, and there I was 10th, not a clue that I was. Thankful, a smidge, that I wasn't 11th, though Nicole was, and she's a saint so she prob wouldn't say something pessimistic. 

Half of our men dropped (Charlie, Geoff, Ryan) for sensible reasons (torn Achilles, breathing/energy issues, severe drop in blood sugar lvl). The other 3 (Chikara, Kris & John) looked strong throughout and finished well. Chikara was 6th (6:40:57), Kris was 18th (7:01:12) & won the Master's Championships at the not-so-Masters age of 35, and John was 22nd (7:08:29). Altogether they were 4th Team - pretty damn good for having lost half their men. Japan's Yamaguchi won handedly, over 12 minutes ahead of Aguilar in 2nd, followed by Okayama, also of Japan. 

Women - myself in 10th (7:48:21, near the exact same time I'd run at the Hoka Carbon X2 Project in '21 when I was injured), Nicole in 11th (7:52:00), Allison in 12th (7:56:28) - the depth is deep! Polina in 19th (8:15:48), Liz in 25th (8:30:58) & Neringa in 33rd (9:00:36) - a rarity that all of our wmn finished. We were 3rd, ahead of Japan by 2m43s (mf'in Mercer closed hard). 2m43s - that's the amount of time it took for me on just one of my multiple poop stops when I ran into the woods because the portos were like murder venues. It was inspiring to watch Hot, Brumelot and Webster braid between one another in fierce battle. Hot is now the 2x 100K World Champion. Brumelot is literally just back from an fx, and Webster also medaled at last year's 50k WC's. Full results HERE

Judge had photoshoots and autograph signings with team Thailand. People put feet into ice buckets and tried to keep themselves from throwing up. Drank some pickle juice. The bus ride back went a lot smoother than '22's in Berlin. But it was long. Fatigue like a blanket, making weird words, bonding, eating cheetos. Left my phone on the bus. Dr. Pierre did a few-mile jaunt trying to catch the driver. Never thought I'd see it again. Put me in a mood. Put me in a mood that I needed it. The shower was not as painful as I'd imagined it would be. Back into track suits. To the Awards Ceremony. Servers ever-there with platters of fried things & dipping sauces. A buffet of rice & pasta dishes, viscous soups w/ spindly toppers. A bar with Kingfishers & SULA wine - the pours to the rim in hell yeah make me feel less (or more). Awards were sick. Hands behind the backs of each other on the 3rd box. Masters Awards. Several of our teammates having won or placed. Traded clothing with other teams. Allison coordinated a swap of my total collection for a Thailand coat & said the sweet Thai athlete started crying. Polina & her husband snagged me an always coveted, hard-to-acquire top from Japan's team. The majority of us had flights out late that night to the wee hours of morn, so goodbyes felt quick after we'd just endured what we'd endured 12 hours prior. Caitriona, her beautiful husband, John (Ireland's team lead), plus some supposed other Irishmen showed up & we went to the rooftop bar at The Chancery for celebration extension. 

On the rooftop we had cocktails & locally brewed beers & Elov joined. Stayed until we needed to head to the airport for a 4 am flight out (got my phone back 30 min before we left), and then, buzzing, we grabbed our things and left Bangalore.  

As much as this is full of magnifying the uncomfortable nuance of racing an ultra, a road ultra, a road ultra in India (body ails, body spoils, errors of judgment, errors of communication, self management, course management, macaques), which might come across as petulant & quibbling & like duh, it's also a sick honor, a sick experience, and something I absolutely love working towards & prioritizing. I feel fortunate to have made US teams & fortunate the USATF & IAU backs it (albeit in a perhaps small way). I'll always do whatever it takes to perform well for the US/Team, but I'm 2-for-2 in performing well in India, and I'm either tainted, should cease, or I should give it the old fool-me-three. 

Nothing fills me more uniquely than experiencing a different part of the world with a group of people who are sore in the same places. When other competitors didn't have their day, when our own didn't, each celebrated those who continued & made it their priority to help the remaining finish. This is a testament to the spirit of the sport, at least in ultra road racing. 

Monday, December 23, 2024

'24 IAU 100K World Championships x The Bangkok Part

After last year it would have been sane for me to set India aside for a while, or forever. Like a relationship that flatly and early reveals itself as not good, and it's your responsibility to take the lesson. But I'm a fool-me-three-times kind of person. I think I always knew if I could, I would. I just enjoyed pretending I might not. A question I wanted to explore spoke louder than ptsd - could I race a 100k 3 weeks after a 50 miler? [Engaging sadism over ego]. Plus, I wanted to see if I could rewrite the whole thing - prove my experience & instincts wrong about India, give it more layers & less judgment. 

What makes everything go from intelligent planning & self-preservation to a youthful let's-see, an aloof-whoopsie, are for me, the trace and potential of specific people. I care a little more about who I'm about to experience a piece of the world with, than, let's say, a smart move in "professional" running. I had to convince my coach & my partner that I should go, because they saw, intimately, what it did to me last year. I never fully convinced them. 

Followed the US Championships, asked pointed are-yous and watched the list of nameables evolve. The for-sures were already beloved, and the unknowns were exciting. My own popcorn popping political hook on. And no matter the research, it always takes to the last minute to know for sure - quite thrilling for the run-goon. In the first week of September the '24 IAU 100k World Team was named: Allison Mercer, myself, Liz Eder-Northern, Neringa Kaulinaite, Nicole Monette, Polina Hodnette, Charlie Lawrence, Chikara Omine, Geoff Burns, Kris Brown, John Judge & Ryan Miller. 

Tunnel Hill happens. I stay openminded, take a few days off, do a few test runs. Feel a piercing down center pubis, tight adductors. Think I'm breaking. Think I won't go. The pain subsides. I do a few workouts. With a peace from a place unawares, I didn't feel rushed, like I had to do something specific or get somewhere specific in order to feel like I could race the 100k. It was just a flat it-is-what-is force of reality. Subtle suggestions of cycling, researching Jonas Buud's double & playfully thinking that perhaps the 50-miler was just a last "long run" leading to.

In the fall KB & I planned an itin, wherein I just piggybacked his choices, which were good ones. We'd organized it so that the first part of the trip would be the fun part, as opposed to waiting after to have earned it. We'd spend 3ish days in Bangkok (where his brother lives) ahead of Bengaluru. Everything was contingent on each of our lives going a specific direction, thus I purchased contingency, which went against my parsimonious, rat-like purchasing behaviors. *Quite against giving airlines "extra" money, even if that "extra" is for basic needs, basic comfort & basic protection. 

I crammed all my shit into one overstuffed backpack, of which I take great pride. *See: quite against needing to use any airline resources, even in the instance of being granted 2 free checked bags. This quip brought to you by a strong desire to be simple against a life of collecting/hoarding, and also a strong desire to be able to flee with ease. 

Saturday, November 30 - To Seattle to meet KB for our early Int'l flight. Security check line was 2 hrs thick. Singapore Airlines. Sat on the tar for 2 hrs because they couldn't get the "media" online; when landing, 17 hrs later, the pilot goes, "So, when we told you the media was offline, it was actually also all of our safety features." Hot towels served on a silver platter with prongs. Because of the 2 hr delay, we were conscious early to having missed our connection in Singapore to Bangkok; was ultimately put on a later flight, while flying. KB made me play choose-a-movie-for-the-other-and-if-it's-on-the-menu-you-have-to-watch-it, which I didn't particularly enjoy, esp bc he gave me Cars 2. Gave him You've Got Mail. First Sing Air meal: salt-baked chicken (gelatinous, tinned-can like), fried rice, sharp cheddar, triple-chocolate cake. 2nd meal: pasta salad with turkey ham (what even is turkey ham? A product of binders?), roasted & smoked pork shoulder w/ apricot chipotle sauce, veg medley, soft cornmeal, tangy lemon torte pot, red wine. The meals felt like the last dregs of a space trip allotment. Slept in fits. 17 hours - the longest I'd ever flown at a shot. 

Sunday, December 1 - At the Singapore airport KB got fresh-pressed orange juice from a vending, got to watch the fruit get massaged; a tour of the cactus garden. A top floor signature noodle Bee Hoon soup sit down. 1h50m flight on Thai Air > Bangkok. Though the flight was short & we were soup-full, we could not pass on the Thai Air meal, for the novelty, and because of the nice older gentleman steward's joyful lilting description of the meal. Arrived in Bangkok @ 11 pm. KB's bags arrived (1 filled with beer, 1 soldier down). His brother, Matt, who had run the Bangkok Marathon at 2 am that morning (of which Kipchoge competed in the 10k) & fresh off beers with friends, met us at the airport to courier us to his home. They use Grab in Bang; 45 min ride. His home is part of a complex of quartered dwellings inherited through family lines, the origin of which was given as a gift from the King to the original family member, and all of which cannot be sold out. His, a 2-story house whose front entrance was encircled by potted garden and long vine, a Centaur MaKina by the door. Cold tiles & long lacquered floors, the walls painted in perhaps purposeful patchy pastel, of blues, marigold & terracotta. Joists, a pull-down screen & projector, a balcony at each end whose floor baked in Bang-heat & would burn your feet as you hung your laundry to dry. Courteously given my own room, while the brothers slept together, a blow up at the foot of the bed & I envisioning their possible youth & raising. Fell asleep around 2 am on 12/2, after 2 days of traveling.

Monday, December 2 - Up by 7, KB & I on the same sched with a brief stint of sleep. Ground beans by Intelligentsia. Ran to the Suan Chitlada subdistrict/Chitralada Royal Villa, for its multi-block moat & pedestrian lane. The 4 sq km complex is comprised of the royal court, government offices, the Chitralada & Dusit Palaces, 13 royal residences, the Vimanmek Mansion (c. 1900) made of teak wood, and guarded by men with guns & Monitor lizards bobbing & doing handstands in the moat water. 

Our first true Thai meal - a favorite of Matt's - at Ratchawat Big Su Beef Noodle on Thanon Nakhon Chaisi Rd. in Dusit. It was busy, but we were ushered to an open table at the back, low, metal, with small metal stools. Ordered beef noodle soup with braised beef, beef balls, sinewy tendon. To adorn: cups of dried spices, green chiles, white sugar. It was perfect. 

A car to the Sleeping Buddha/Phraborom Maharatchawang area to see the Chao Phraya. From the river, short pulsing dead-end alleys, of timid cats uninterested in the coo & beckon, vendors, cast iron indents filled with batter from a kettle for khanom krok, skewered Moo Bing Kao Nieow. Battled the urge & action to photograph everything, to not make the subject feel like an object, like a thing I felt I could claim simply because it was new and of novelty to me. What do you do with that? Ask permission I presume. But, I feel like asking kills the magic in the candid. 

KB really likes vending machines; found one serving Thai iced tea in an alley. Strangely, it took 15 minutes to curate (6/10). Wat Arun Ratchawaram loomed hazy at the end of dead ends. We meandered many such trying to locate the ferry across the motherly water to Wat Arun. Found it. A short ride at 25c/pp, the brown water choppy. To enter Wat Arun, women must be fully covered. Entrance = $6/pp. 

WAT ARUN, or Wat Arun Ratchawararam Ratchawaramahawihan, the "Temple of Dawn," is a Buddhist temple seated on Thonburi on the west bank. Named after the Hindu God Aruna, the charioteer of Surya (the sun god). Apparently, he was born prematurely and partially developed because his mother Vinata was jealous of another's 1000 long-bodied serpent sons who'd recently birthed, so she broke one of her eggs open early and out came a halved Aruna. Aruna cursed his mother because of such, and in so cursing, rose to the skies & was bestowed charioteer. Anyways, the temple has existed since at least the 17th c, the prang & temple buildings are decorated in shells of Mauritia Mauritania & bits of porcelain previously used as ballast by boats coming to Bang from China. The main prang is interpreted as a stupa-like pagoda encrusted with colored faience & is considered to have 3 symbolic levels: Traiphum, indicating all realms of existence, middle for Tavatimsa, the Tusita heaven where all desires are gratified, and the top denoting Devaphum & its 6 heavens within 7 realms of happiness. The main throb is topped by a 7-pronged trident (Trident of Shiva). Steep steps & circling. Women in tradt'l Thai-ware with paper umbrellas. 

After, waiting for a ferry to the end of the river line to one of Matt's favorite riverside bars - Jack's; the Sky Bar's golden orb in view. Off the ferry in Bang Rak, graffiti of soaking body & cartoon stone, of peeling curtain. 

Jack's was pure. A round of Singha 630mls & a bucket of ice, which Matt said is necessary for hydration. Ordered: stir fried chicken morning glory, Larb Moo (spicy pork mince with mint leaf), chicken wings. After several rounds of Singhas, tried a Leo (did not enjoy as much as the Singha; some call it swill). Lady-owner had a bird on her shoulder who would crow uniquely. The bathroom opened up to a grill of skewers, and the toilet was so close to the wall that I had to side-saddle (as most all toilets in Bangkok appeared to be organized). From Jack's, a bag of Singhas purchased & shared in a tuk tuk ride back to Matt's, where we sampled KB's packed IPA selection. 


Later that evening - to a hidden bar on the river. To get to it was meandering, desolate, suspect flashlight conversations, a secret alley, through a random door. Live music feat. Incubus. More Singhas. A jovial walk home wherein we planned to have a car take us to Khao Kheow Zoo in Bang Phra about 70 miles away to see Moo Deng. 

Tuesday, December 3 - Up every hour. Might have been jet lag, might have been the 13 Singhas, might have been the morning glory. KB & I did 3E, 20m T, 4x 1/1 around the moat. Enjoyed the side by side; same travel, same sched, same food, same being squeezed by the heat. The w/o itself felt bad. Could have been the mid-80 deg temps, the jet lag, the 13 Singhas, the morning glory. After, and left to our own while Matt worked, we walked to a cafe for Thai iced teas with foam heads, then to the Si Ratchawat Market, a traditional wet & one of the oldest. The market is in the belly of a concrete ground floor, decaying, with channels down the walkways for runoff tainted with blood. Bags of discarded fragrant fish parts at the corners. Baskets of beheaded fresh fish beside dried carcass', produce, bowls of exposed picklings, dried goods, fried Gai Tod, Moo Deng merch. 



Extending down Nakhon Chaisi Rd, more vendors & narrow noodle shops. With post-taxing-run fatigue it was not easy to choose where to eat, led by a tainted compass towards populated, pictures, the look of the interior of pots. Eventually pointed at a picture, ate some beef & more morning glory. KB got a bushel of longans, a coconut, a dish of mango sticky rice to go. After a siesta, we went to Mikkeller right at opening, which felt like a hug you've been craving. At the back of this lush expanse of yard & string lights, a What's Pouring of Bean Geek, Liquid Confidence, Siamese Dream & Camoufleur. 

A 30-tap pour list featuring:

- Mikkeller's Siamese Dream (hoppy lager 4.7% *tried, "smooth"
- Mikkeller's Santa's Little Helper (Belgium strong dark ale 10.9%)
- Mikkeller's 'Blanche De' (wheat beer 5%)
- Creature Comforts' Pineapple & Lemon Tritonia (Gose; German style tart wheat ale w/ coriander, fruit & nature essence 4.5%)
- Mikkeller's Ich Bin Raspberry (Berliner weisse 3.7%) *tried, "dry, secondary fruit flavors"
- Lervig's Super Blanc (wheat beer 4.7%)
- Phantom Brewing's P is for Peacharine (DIPA 8%) *tried, "that's breakfast" & "dangerous"
- 8 Wired's Manu (lager 4.5%)
- Warpigs' Amandio (imperial stout 12%)
- Tool's Liquid Confidence (imperial stout with chile 12%)
- Hacklberg's Festbier (5.5%)
- Mikkeller's HvaSaa!? (Belgium strong dark ale 6.8%)
- Verdant Brewing's Under the Same Sky (DIPA 8.4%) *tried, enjoyed
- Warpigs' Cry for Help Rick (porter 7.4%)
- Phantom Brewing's Guess You Guy Are't Ready For That Yet (hazy IPA 6%)
- Mikkeller's Bean Geek (session porter 5.5%)
- Mikkeller's Hopped Up (Berliner Weisse 2.8%)
- Hacklberg's Jacobi Weissbier (Hefeweisen 5.5%)
- Strawberry Sunday (5%)
- Mikkeller's i'Burst (IPA 5.5%)
- Mikkeller's Beer Geek Fudgesicle Ba Rye Whiskey (Imperial Oatmeal Stout w/ cocoa (11.9%)
- Lervig's Super DIPA (8.5%) *tried, enjoyed
- A N/A John Doe
- Omnipollo's Fatamorgana (DIPA 8%)
- Grimm's Camoufleur (Saison 6.5%) 
- Omnipollo's Kyrkan (Pilsner 5.2%
- Verdant x Fidens' 10 Years (DIPA 8%) *tried, "thykk"
- La Cattiva Bianco, Rosso & Vino Ancestral 

After a first pour we toured the temp-controlled back shed's bottle shop ($35+). The room smelled like an old wood chest & dropped me into sense-memories. KB schooled me on the artist of Mikkeller - Keith Shore. His 2 main characters, soul mates & label mascots, "Henry & Sally." They let us buy a petite glass off them; bubble wrapped. Then, in a multi-DIPA rush, walked 30-40 minutes to meet Matt & his friends at Saengchai Phochana on Sukhumvit Rd - a famous Khao Tom shop over half a century old & a local's favorite for late night. 

The ingredients are prepped & cooking is done in one of the shophouses on the street, while an adjacent indoor shophouse is used for dining. It's family-style Thai-Chinese comfort food and "the menu is extensive and not in the best shape - one of those menus you don't really want to put your full palm down onto," with verbiage & prices taped over & re-scrawled. The owner, standing beside countless celebrities, is shown in photographs from floor to ceiling on the shophouse walls. 

Matt was there at the back of the shop at a low metal table with low metal stools (always at the back, always low, always metal), with his 2 sweet, intelligent friends: this guy with '00's side swept bangs that he'd flick with adjustments of his neck, a goulash of places lived, a possible Frenchman with the embassy in Thailand, in white collar, slacks & work backpack. His girlfriend, oval-faced, decisive, pretty & pretty-voiced. When we'd arrived, there were plates of half-eaten food about; ordered more, a full range:

- Tom Moo Kiem Chai: Signature Soup with minced pork, Chinese-style pickled mustard greens & preserves of salty plums that added a pungently sour & salty fruit taste.
- Pla Gao Tod Gratiem Prik Thai: Brown marbled group, deep fried & topped with garlic, black pepper & prik
- Fried soft crab w/ curry powder
- Duck's blood & breast
- Chinese chives w/ crispy pork 
- many others I can't recall + Singhas

From Phochana to Woodball Karaoke Bar. Woodball is narrow & multi-storied. The main bar on the bottom floor, a bench seat beneath the window facing the bar with screens above it, lady-tenders, a steep spiral staircase that climbs 3 floors to the bathroom & private rooms. Little bowls of crunchy snacks. Ordered a martini, then Singhas. I was very softly buzzing, slightly uncomfortable & fully free. The song choices were of reverie, nostalgia & a nice range of octaves. Once, I said aloud, "I'm harmonizing," and KB shot back that that's probably not what I should call it. 

Wednesday, December 4 - Up by 7 with stomach unease, a light headache. Took the day off running. A short walk down the street for breakfast curries which we ordered with point and nods - a spicy chicken & a green, with a sweet, dried sausage on the side. I was operating half-mast, dipping spoons of rice into the curry, which was sacrilegious to an observing local who encouraged the proper etiquette of ladling the curry onto the rice.

 To a coffee cart that sold like 87 different concoctions. Got some lg. nescafes with condensed milk. All of these flavors: curries, sausage, coffee, condensed milk sitting on a trembling gut whose bedrock was likely duck blood. 

Took a car to the airport for our late morning flight to Bengaluru, India. Had some time to kill at the Bangkok airport. Picked up some menthol snorters, an orange & espresso iced coffee, 2 palatial royal Thai milk teas from Pang Cha, with milk caviar & decadent foam & multi-sized gelatins. Slap that onto the aforementioned flavors in my stomach & you got one incredible carbo-load for the 100k. 

Things I did not try & should next if there is one: tom yum goong, moo ping, khanom krok, fried quail eggs, pan fried squid eggs, thai fried insects, multi-course dinner cruise on an antique wooden rice barge, pak khlong talat, soi nana & teens of thailand.